In Search Of The Guardians Of The Jungle
2024 Panama Crossing Expedition

The great aim of all travel is to get out of one’s self, to become something different
— Mary Kingsley
 

Idea

In 2024, the Expedition Cooperative team will retrace the infamous footsteps of Spanish conquistador Vasco Núñez de Balboa and cross the Panama Isthmus Darien forest from Atlantic Coast to Pacific Coast by kayaks and on foot.

We will document the uneven struggle of the guardians of the jungle, the Guna and Embera tribes, against deforestation and other threats to their land and culture.


Objectives

  • Crossing through the Panama Isthmus from Atlantic to Pacific without motorized transport.

  • Setting the route for the Atlantic-Pacific Adventure Trail and Race.

  • Documenting the changes in natural habitat and cultural sphere that have occurred during the 500 years of European presence in Panama.

  • Helping local indigenous communities, such as the Embera and Guna, to get involved in responsible tourism.

  • Raising awareness about the deforestation problem of tropical forests and its impact on local communities.

  • Raising awareness about the lifestyle changes and challenges faced by local communities.

  • Raising awareness about the need for national parks and forest protection areas.


Route details

  • Sea kayaking in San Blas: 50-60 kilometers over 4-5 days.

  • Tropical forest on foot/packraft: 30 kilometers over 5-7 days.

  • Kayaking rivers and lake: 30 kilometers over 2-3 days.

  • Tropical forest and artificial savanna (pastures) on foot: 20 kilometers over 3-4 days.

    Total: 90 kilometers by kayak, 50 kilometers by on foot.

 
 

Background

In 1513, Spanish conquistador Francisco Balboa organized an expedition with 190 men in the current Panama region. After a few weeks, they climbed a watershed range peak and Europeans saw the Pacific Ocean for the first time. Since then, Panama has become a hot spot for exploration and exploitation by the colonies. Gold, goods, and slaves were traded here for 300 years. The 20th century brought the construction of the Panama Canal, which kept the Isthmus as a key point for global trade and commerce.

Meanwhile, local indigenous communities of the Guna and Embera have been living their natural lifestyle for centuries. In the 1970s, Bayano Lake was created to provide electricity to growing Panama City. Many communities had to relocate as the lake took their villages. The increasing demand for beef has encouraged local farmers to look for more pastures, and what was once pristine forest is constantly being cleared for them. The Embera and Guna indigenous people are constantly fighting to protect their land and nature.

More than 15 years of experience in the region founded the idea for this expedition. We want to document the changes that have taken place in the nature and culture of the indigenous inhabitants of this region and raise awareness of their situation. Setting the route could become an adventure trail that, over time, could incorporate indigenous people as hosts, guides, and experts. Responsible tourism along the route could protect nature and keep the ancestral customs of the Embera and Guna alive. The route is also a perfect place to create recurring events such as the Atlantic-Pacific Adventure Race, which would involve kayaking, jungle trekking, and survival skills. Building an adventure lodge in the middle of the route with the Embera community would be a great way to continue the project.

Team

A team of no more than 6 people is reasonable for the entire crossing. In case of sickness, injury, or other problems, we can safely retreat in groups and still keep the expedition going. Some members can also join the expedition for the San Blas kayaking and Bayano lake kayaking, helping with logistics and skipping the difficult jungle part. The idea is that we will be supported by local indigenous guides from the Guna communities (from the Atlantic Coast to Bayano) and the Embera communities (from Bayano to the Pacific Coast). Bayano Lake with Pan-American Highway in the middle of the route is a convenient emergency pickup or exit point.