São Tomé and Príncipe is one of the least-visited countries in Africa, with something like 35,000 arrivals a year, as well as one of the freest — Freedom House scores it 84 out of 100 on its freedom index, among the highest on the continent.
Cão Grande Peak, visible from E, at sunset
Taken together, those two facts were a major factor in our decision to visit the Island of São Tomé in April 2026.
Pico Cão Grande is a volcanic plug rising 370 metres out of the forest, and one of the highlights of the trip. We could have looked at it all day.
The walk to its base is straightforward, even though it takes you through jungle and along a sharp ridge. Climbing the rock is another matter entirely. Forget it without a team, proper gear, serious dedication and not a trace of arachnophobia. The teams who have climbed it spent weeks there, mostly in the rain
Getting to São Tomé is straightforward once you are in Lisbon. TAP flies the route two or three times a week, about seven hours south. There is no other easy way in from Europe.
Edge of forest visible from the shoreline
The islands have a research history worth reading before you go. In 1990 a University of East Anglia expedition surveyed birds, small mammals, turtles and medicinal plants across São Tomé, rediscovering three species not seen in sixty-two years. Their report is still the most useful single document we found on the island's ecology, and it is in the Royal Geographical Society's expedition archive.
Long, empty beaches are not unusual on São Tomé
You can spend a whole day on the coast without seeing another person.
No need to get up early for a sunbed.
Everything else was made easy by Jack, who has called the island home for the past couple of years and runs The Chocolate Islands, connecting visitors with the island and its community. He welcomed us with beers, homemade moonshine, and an introduction to his neighbourhood, giving us a glimpse of island life beyond the usual experience.
If you’re working with Jack, it’s worth asking what he needs bringing over, as many everyday items can be surprisingly difficult to get hold of on the island. We brought toys for his dog, Bilbo.
The car had its share of adventures.
Each time, the rental crew sorted it out straight away.
Notes and sources
Ilhéu das Rolas and the Marco do Equador: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ilhéu_das_Rolas
Freedom in the World 2026: freedomhouse.org/country/sao-tome-and-principe/freedom-world/2026
Tourism and the economy: uneca.org — Tourism Satellite Accounts, October 2025
Atkinson, P.W., Dutton, J.S., Peet, N.B. and Sequeira, V.A.S. (1994) A Study of the Birds, Small Mammals, Turtles and Medicinal Plants of São Tomé with notes on Príncipe. BirdLife International Study Report No. 56. Cambridge: BirdLife International. RGS expedition 4743, expeditions.rgs.org
Shot on:
Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II
DJI Mavic Mini and
iPhone 15 Pro Max
With thanks
Our thanks to Nuyarn, Peak Design, Peli, Sea to Summit, Ortlieb and Hydro Flask for their generous and continuing support.
Equatorial heat, salt and constant damp are an honest test of kit, and we were glad to have theirs.